Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Guatemala, right place, right time ....again

The penultimate day in Mexico was memorable in many ways. We finally organized ourselves to book a hotel early in the morning before going to see the Canyon that had previously been unknown to us and, I have to say, had never been mentioned before Haallem advised us of it's existence. It was a hidden treasure and believe me, we had to really hunt it out. The sat nav had us going round in circles and with unnerving regularity had us on the wrong road for our turning and all we could do was watch, helplessly, as the road we wanted passed us by. However, the Canyon was worth every swear word and total exacerbation uttered and experienced along the way. It was a place of beauty and life and yet another of those 'treasured moments' to be locked in our memories. As this cannot be depended on to last forever I will be putting photos in the Mexico album.

From there it was onto the border town and I was getting very excited about going over the border into Guatemala. Every time we get towards a border there is a little bit of apprehension and anxiety. All of a sudden I remember things I have read or heard about the border or the next country. Even though I give myself a little talking to I can't get them out of my head. Nothing ever prepares me for the onslaught of locals who surround you offering to change money into local currency or to give you a helping hand to deal with the vast amount of permits, stamps, insurance etc. I waited with the shed whilst Brian was led away by 2 or sometimes 3 of these helpers. There was plenty to keep occupied. Numerous push bikes with a Dad, 4 year old child, Mum and baby passed me by, a man stopped to floss his teeth for a few minutes (he made a very good job of it) and many people saying hello, good morning and occasionally buenos dias. Eventually, with everything done and papers in order we set off into the unknown .......Guatemala.

Initially I didn't know if my posterior would survive the Guatemala roads . There were huge pot holes, no warning of when the dual carriage way would go into single or when roads turn and go in opposite directions. It was a nightmare but thanks to Brian's amazing competence and riding experience all was well with the world. Occasionally he missed a particularly deep hole and I was reminded of the importance of the nice shiny new and super strong shock absorber we put on the shed in Fairbanks!

We made our way to Antigua Guatemala and found smoother roads and incredible landscape. Even the hills were groomed into stunning and stark patchwork fields.


Again, we had a little difficulty finding our way into the town itself. We could see it both with our own eyes and on the Sat Nav but at one point thought we were going to have to turn round to get to it. However, we eventually found a road into the town.......... and what a town, what a road. First we rode a cobbled street into what appeared to be a market so you can imagine how many people and cars were pushing their way around. It was crazy. No signs to indicate where the centre was. No evidence of any hotels or hostels. We were beginning to think that coming here was a mistake. We meandered through the streets and eventually came to a big yellow church which had a couple of hotels near to it.


Now, one thing that we have learned along the way is to ask to see the rooms in these small, local hotels before committing ourselves. The first hotel, though adequate, did not match up to Don Diego where we now find ourselves.


Yet again, by accident rather than good planning, we have found ourselves in the right place at the right time. Today, 15th September, is independence day in Guatemala and we have been absorbing all of the festivities since arriving here on Sunday the 13th. It is an absolutely intoxicating and vibrant celebration which lasts for days. The parades are so much more fun than the ones we have back home on 'walking days' The bands are quite diverse in their competence or musical styles but the one thing they have in common is their ability to beat their drums to within a millimeter of breaking.

video

The noise is so loud it actually vibrates your bones and sets off car alarms. Watching each group of children, proudly showing off their costumes, carrying out little dance moves or demonstrating musical talents stirs quite a range of emotions and I am so thankful that I have been here to experience all of this genuine happiness and pride.

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